Trans-Forming Fashion

Are Transgendered Fashion Models a Trend or Fad?

by John Lausky
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Now more than ever before, the trans community is enjoying increased visibility in the world.  It’s no wonder, then, that a fashion industry known for reflecting the sign of the times is undergoing a transition all its own. 

The early nineties ushered in the “supermodel” era with Cindy Crawford.  Crawford was revolutionary for her day, not only because of the giant mole above her lip, but because her brown hair and eyes stood out in the sea of blonde-haired-blue-eyed Christie Brinkley clones before her.

By the turn of the millennium, however, the skinny-girl waif look had taken over, led by Kate Moss.  It wouldn’t last.  The average-size every-women fought to be represented and soon the plus-sized craze, led by Crystal Renn, was born.  

As we near the end of a second decade, a new group of ladies (and men), who have fought long and hard to be seen, are emerging.  Transgendered models like Arisce Wanzer began taking over the runways last year.    According to industry insiders, girls who charged around $150 an hour two years ago are now commanding high profile ad shoots at $10,000 a day. And some, like Wanzer and her transgendered boyfriend, male model Laith Ashley, are even becoming household names.  

Are trans fashion models the next trend in fashion or are they simply a passing fad?

“Trans models are not a trend,” contends Wanzer. “We are another check mark for diversity in the fashion industry.  We are being celebrated for who we are and the beauty we exude. We are finally being seen as people.”

Ren Spriggs, a model with Slay Models, the agency that handles many of the leading trans talent including Wanzer, agrees.  She believes the longevity of transgendered models will be due to their ability to transform. “We can be anything from hyper feminine to hyper masculine to androgynous.  There are no limits, other than how far society will allow us to go.”

She says the past year was a breakthrough one for her and other trans models.  “After years of fighting, it feels like we’ve reached the final frontier.  It’s such an incredible honor to finally be able to walk the runways alongside the top tier girls.”

Isis King, who first gained national attention when she competed on Tyra Banks’ America’s Next Top Model show in 2008, recently landed her dream job, walking the Betsy Johnson show at New York’s Lincoln Center.  “Betsy Johnson is one of my design idols.  Growing up, I never imagined I would one day walk and be touched/pinned by fashion royalty!”

It’s not only the runways that transgendered models are dominating.  They’re landing some of the most coveted print and advertising jobs, too.  

In addition to her recent spread in Vogue Germany, Arisce Wanzer made history by being the first trans model to grace the cover of the Spiegel catalogue.

Model Sabel Gonzales is the new spokeswoman for the I AM VODKA liquor brand.  She appears in their latest campaign, "The Price of Being Me” .    “It was always my dream to become a fashion model,” says the former beauty pageant contestant. “The most important thing I've learned from this experience is to have courage and be ready to work for what you hope to achieve.  Nothing comes easy.”

“Modeling is such a hard and inconsistent job,” agrees King.  

“You never know what lies in the future,” echoes Spriggs, who longs for the day when she sees herself on billboards. In the meantime, though, she’s enjoying living and working in sunny Los Angeles.

“I love the weather and the restaurants!”  Despite being a model, Spriggs is a self-proclaimed foodie and makes it her mission to try as many new places as she can.  Her favorite spot is Tatsu Ramen and her current delicacy of choice are pho burritos.

Wanzer also loves LA for its weather.  “I’m a social butterfly who loves her day-time pool parties.”

It’s not all fun and games, though.  The girls recognize they have been given a rare opportunity to spark change in the world.  They see themselves as role models for the next generation of transgendered men and women.

“I want to be an inspiration,” confirms Gonzales.

“The more transgendered personalities there are in mainstream, the better treatment the trans community will receive,” says Ren. “Eventually, we will see full integration.”

King loves when fans from America’s Next Top Model and Strut, the Oxygen show about transferred fashion models that she appeared on this fall, approach her on the street. “When I hear things like, ‘you saved my life’ or ‘because of you, I moved to America to pursue modeling’, I think…wow, girl, you did it.

“Now, if only I can get my bank account to reflect that success,” she adds with a smile.