There are times when you must go out of your way to find that one restaurant that will surprise and delight you. Standard & Pour Kitchen + Bar is that restaurant.
Perched atop a hill in the town of Henderson, about a 25 minute drive from the Vegas Strip, Standard & Pour is a bit boxy and nondescript from the outside. But climb the stairs and step inside, and you’ll find a space that’s homey and elegant, yet casual enough for a fun night out.
Simon Hospitality Group and Titan Brands created Standard & Pour as a true dining destination in Henderson, in part, to honor the memory and legacy of Chef Kerry Simon with innovative food and cocktails, and a hip gastropub-type setting. I had the honor of meeting Chef Simon, some years ago, at his namesake Vegas restaurant, and though I wasn’t yet a food writer, and we’d never met, he made me feel as though I were a guest in his home. I felt that same sense of welcome at Standard & Pour.
My friends Michael and his boyfriend René were in town, so I brought them along with me. We were greeted by the manager, whom I knew from several other Vegas restaurants. We got comfortable and began with some drinks. René tried the Hey Little Rich Girl, made with Brokers Gin, lemon, orange juice, and Pavan - a liqueur made with Muscat grapes and orange blossom. Fresh and biting, it was like a gin-based Margarita. Michael had the citrusy First Date, made with grapefruit vodka, sour mix, and a spritz of Mezcal. I started with the Southern Belle - Earl Grey infused vodka, peach and lemon. Like a fizzy, alcoholic peach iced tea, this was my favorite.
We decided to share just about everything ordered, which would allow me to sample and write about more of the food, as well as give my friends a much more complete S&P food experience.
First came the appetizers and salads:
The Spicy Shrimp, prepared with red curry, coconut milk and sambal was a kicky starter, with a nice interplay between the sweet, fresh flavor of the shrimp and the pleasing heat of the sambal - a chili, lime and vinegar based hot sauce. The Steak Tartare was flavorful and beefy, with each ingredient popping, but an amazing overall harmony. The Calamari was a real standout - tender, tasty squid coated in potato starch and rice flour, lightly fried, coated in a ridiculously good pesto aioli, and garnished with red Fresno chiles and cilantro. Definitely one of our favorites, it would’ve made a great main course as well. I love beets, so I ordered the Roasted Beet Salad, with spiced pistachio, mustard oil, and goat cheese mascarpone. Something that set this salad above others I’ve tried was that the beets had been smoked before roasting, giving them a remarkable depth of flavor beyond their natural, earthy deliciousness! Fantastic! Finally, although we hadn’t ordered it, the kitchen sent out the Tomato & Burrata Salad. Prepared with heirloom cherry tomatoes, a balsamic reduction and a bed of green olive aioli, the tomatoes had a bright, lightly acidic flavor, which was balanced out nicely by the buttery burrata. It was truly the taste of springtime in a bowl!
Next the Main Courses: Michael selected the Filet - an 8 ounce cut of Black Angus beef, perfectly seasoned and grilled; tender, pink and juicy, with a gorgeous char on the outside. He also ordered a side of Creamed Kale. Now, I’m not a big fan of kale, and while the Parmesan cheese and cream gave it fabulous flavor, I still hated the texture. René chose the Icelandic Cod - lightly browned under the broiler, served with a luscious beurre blanc, slivers of toasted almonds, and grilled broccolini, this beautifully cooked piece of fish was light and flaky, with an irresistibly rich mouth-feel. As for me, I’ve always felt that one of the tests of a great kitchen is how well they handle a “simple” hamburger, so I went with the Burger & Fries. Served on a dijon grilled potato bun, with cheddar cheese and caramelized onions, this excellent burger was juicy and tender, with no need for condiments, while the fries were crispy outside, and fluffy inside. Additionally, we decided to share the Seafood Linguine - a dish that was delicious in its simplicity - garlicky and loaded with Manila clams, calamari, and Gulf White Shrimp. It was a bit difficult to eat, as the noodles had been cut into pieces, but it was worth the trouble.
Lastly, although we hadn’t ordered dessert, the management was kind enough to send two of them to our table. We tried the Lost Bread - a dense, sweet variation on bread pudding, made with cinnamon rolls, candied pecans, and maple syrup icing. It was a bit heavy, considering the amount of food we’d eaten, but it was still really yummy, and we all agreed it would also make a fantastic breakfast the next day! The knockout punch, however, was the Wine & Cheese Sundae! Now, believe me, it wasn’t as strange as it sounds. A cheesecake blondie sat between two scoops of Merlot ice cream, and was topped with maraschino cherry infused whipped cream and garnished with brandied cherries! And here’s another confession: I don’t like wine! But the Merlot ice cream had the subtlest wine flavor, which mellowed out the sweeter elements of the dessert, making it insanely good! As enjoyable as the rest of the food had been, this was the surprise hit of the evening. Michael said he’d drive in from L.A. just to get that dessert again!
Our dinner was wonderful - Nicole, our server, had made great suggestions, and was able to answer all of our menu questions. She and the manager also made sure every course was brought out in a timely manner, with no lag time between courses. And though we had arrived early, when there were very few customers, as the place filled up, I noticed the other diners receiving the same friendly, meticulous service.
It had been a lovely evening - catching up with old friends and sharing good food and drink. On our way out, we stopped on the balcony of S&P’s hip cocktail lounge and took in the lights of the Vegas Strip glittering off in the distance. It was the perfect end to the night.
If you’re a Vegas resident, by all means get out to Standard & Pour Kitchen + Bar for brunch, dinner, or cocktails. If you’re a Vegas visitor, I urge you to call a cab, hire an Uber, or get a Lyft, but just get there! I’m sure Standard & Pour will be up to your standards!
Standard & Pour is located at 11261 S. Eastern Ave, Henderson NV www.standardandpourlv.com
