Craft - Lunch

by Michael Barbieri
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In 2001, Chef Tom Colicchio opened Craft on East 19th Street.  His mission: to provide a fine dining experience using simple, super fresh ingredients, prepared in ways that allowed the food’s natural flavors to be the focus.  Simple food, simply prepared.

Back then, this was an innovative concept.  Today, almost 16 years later, that innovation has kept Colicchio at the forefront of the culinary scene.

Success often involves taking chances, and Craft has taken another delicious chance recently, by adding a daily lunch service.  The mission now, is to provide the lunchtime crowd with the same extraordinary food, but in a more relaxed atmosphere, and at a price point that most diners should find extremely reasonable.

I stopped by Craft for lunch on a chilly, blustery day, but the space, while sleek, modern, and minimalist, still felt very welcoming - the shine of the polished wood floors and tables, the curved wall covered in brown leather panels, and of course, the signature lighting fixtures of hanging bulbs with softly glowing filaments - everything about the place generated a sense of warmth.  There was a nice, intimate crowd scattered throughout the dining room, an unobtrusive mix of light 1960’s & 70’s soul and pop music playing over the sound system, and the whole place felt like a quiet, elegant getaway, where business types, locals, and tourists alike, could have a lunchtime experience that would far exceed the usual fast casual joints or everyday deli fare.

My server, Cimma, explained that the lunch menu was prix fixe; two courses for $29 per person or three courses for $36.  I was also given the option of ordering a la carte, off their regular menu, but I decided on the three course lunch.

The menu was actually quite extensive for a prix fixe, and as soon as I had ordered, my server brought the bread: the Mushroom Fougasse - a rustic, yet sophisticated flatbread from the Provence region of France.  Studded with fresh mushrooms, the bread was soft, with a wonderful chew, and a pleasantly sweet finish.  Served with olive oil for dipping, I was told that this was a relatively new addition to the menu, and I really enjoyed its subtle mix of savory and sweet.

My first course arrived: the Duck Liver Mousse - a smooth, rich mousse with all the qualities of a fine foie-gras; pleasantly gamey and ducky, with a slightly mineral undertaste.  Imagine the best traditional Jewish chopped liver, but more refined, with a bit of cognac in the whip to add some brightness.  Sprinkled with a touch of coarse salt and micro-chives, the mousse was topped with pickled mustard seed, and served with pickled red onion and a pickled cherry tomato, all of which added acidity to balance out the richness of the liver.  Spread on the crispy, grilled sourdough bread that accompanied, it made for a very luxe bite!

For my second course, I had chosen the Gemelli Pasta with short rib ragout, kale and parmesan.  A fusion of fine dining and grandmother food, the dish was elegant, yet homey and soul-satisfying.  Cimma called it a gemelli hug!  The twisting double tubules of pasta were perfectly cooked, and the ragout was beefy and rich, made with a veal stock base, tomato, carrots, onion, turnips, and tender shreds of braised short rib.  The kale added a nice texture and a pleasing touch of bitterness to offset the sweeter elements of the sauce, while the Parmesan lent the dish a tiny hint of saltiness.  The portion was ideal - hearty, yet it didn’t weigh me down.  

Finally, for dessert, the Mascarpone Cheesecake!  A work of art on a plate - a square of beautifully creamy cheesecake, with a subtle lemony flavor, topped with bits of supremed grapefruit, served with white chocolate and puffed rice clusters, and garnished with dots of hibiscus gelee and edible apple blossoms.  One would imagine that so many seemingly disparate elements would fight each other or clash somehow, but they worked in delicious harmony - the cheesecake itself was not overly sweet, the grapefruit added some gentle acidity, and the gelee gave the dessert a lovely floral pop.  The apple blossoms, while very tiny, actually carried a big apple flavor, which complemented the dish beautifully - a real surprise to my palate, making for a delicious end to a lovely lunch!

Lunch in New York City can often be a hurried affair, but Chef Colicchio, his Chef De Cuisine Kyle Koenig, and Pastry Chef Michal Shelkowitz have crafted lunchtime fare so good, it shouldn’t be rushed, so whether you want something lighter, like their Smoked Salmon Salad, or more substantial dishes like the Flat Iron Steak or the Craft Burger with smoked Gouda, lunch at Craft is something to sit and savor!

Just wait till you hear about dinner!

 

 

 

Michael Barbieri

Food & Entertainment Writer