Are you going to a Broadway show, and looking for a great pre-show dinner? Did you just catch the latest Off-Broadway sensation, and want a lovely meal or terrific cocktail before heading home? Are you seeing a fabulous cabaret or drag show, and find yourself hungry for more than just entertainment? Or do you simply want to have a nice evening out in an intimate spot that’s elegant, yet never stuffy? Well, the West Bank Cafe has been satisfying locals and visitors alike since it opened in 1978.
Located in the Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood, near the corner of 42nd Street and 9th Avenue, the West Bank Cafe is just a few blocks away from the Broadway theater district, and literally across the street from Theatre Row, so it’s ideal for pre and post-show dining. The upstairs dining room and bar are warm and welcoming, with hardwood floors, glowing lamps, and uncrowded tables set with white linen tablecloths. Downstairs, the 100 seat Laurie Beechman Theatre is home to Broadway and cabaret performers presenting club acts in a comfortable, post-deco setting.
I was scheduled to meet my friend Scott for dinner and a show at the Beechman, but as usual, I arrived about 20 minutes early, so I sat at the beautiful bar, under the soft light from the hanging Southwest-influenced, Tiffany-style lamps, and started my evening with an excellent Blood Orange Cosmopolitan. Made with Citron vodka, Triple Sec, and fresh lime and blood orange juice, this tasty drink had just enough bite from the vodka and lime, with the sweetness of the triple sec and orange juice to mellow it out.
Scott arrived right on time and we headed downstairs to the showroom, where he ordered a cocktail for himself. He chose the St. Rita, a mix of tequila, St. Germaine Elderflower Liqueur, fresh lime juice, and agave syrup - a tart, but refreshing take on a Margarita.
We had planned on dining an hour before showtime so our meal wouldn’t be rushed. We studied the menu and decided to share three of the starters. First, the Pork Belly - a fork-tender square of perfectly cooked pork belly on a bed of sweet potato purée, with caramelized cranberries and slivers of apple in a fresh slaw. Meaty, with just the right amount of fattiness to accentuate the natural pork flavor, this was definitely one of the best pieces of pork belly I’ve tried. The Salmon Tartare was next, served with lime créme fraîche and jalapeño, the flavors were cool, clean and very fresh. The hint of lime added the perfect, subtle touch of acidity, and the house made potato crisps lent the dish a satisfying crunch and a bit of salt to make the flavors pop. Our final appetizer was the Crispy Octopus Leg - crispy on the outside, but wonderfully tender inside, and accompanied by cannellini beans in a light San Marzano tomato ragout, and some peppery arugula, the octopus had a mildly sweet oceanic flavor, and when all the elements were combined on the fork, they made a beautifully balanced bite.
Almost as soon as our starters were cleared, the main courses were brought out. Scott chose the Pork Chop - an on-the-bone chop, lean and juicy, with a gorgeous sear on the outside, served on a bed of braised red cabbage, with chunks of Granny Smith apples, which added tartness, and small cubes of pork fat called lardons, which gave the dish a bit of flavorful fattiness to counter the leanness of the chop. I ordered the fantastic Duck Risotto. The traditionally starchy rice had a lovely texture - not overdone or too liquid. The dish was studded with tender shreds of yummy duck confit, diced butternut squash, finished off with a sprinkling of fresh sage. What really made the dish remarkable to me, was the addition of white truffle oil, which perfumed the risotto with an irresistibly pungent, earthy aroma, and gave it a fabulous depth of flavor, with an enticing garlicky undertone. To be frank, I never wanted this dish to end!
Just as we were about to finish our entrées, however, the show began. The cabaret seats 100, comfortably, and we were situated about mid-room, so we had a perfect view. The stage is one of the larger ones within the cabaret circuit, and the singers and their band looked perfectly at home as they performed their line-up of powerful songs. The material was very current, and the show was a real crowd pleaser - more like a mini rock concert than a traditional cabaret!
Our server began dropping his checks as soon as the show had ended and the house lights had gone up, as there was a second show following the one we had seen, and they needed to turn the room and set the stage for the new act. Because of this, I never had an opportunity to order dessert. Understanding the circumstances, however, I headed back up to the bar and ordered one there. I tried the Lemon Tart - a beautifully baked, individual tart, with a silken lemon curd filling, topped with a few rosettes of meringue, and some fresh blueberries. The lemon curd was bright and not too sugary sweet, with a strong citrus punch, and the luscious mouth feel of the filling spoke to its freshness. A nice end to a good meal!
With its comfortable ambience, moderate prices, a menu that showcases simple yet sophisticated seasonal fare, and a diverse line-up of cabaret, theater, and drag artists, the West Bank Cafe is perfect for you, whether you’re a hungry New Yorker, or a visitor taking in the sights. Come for brunch, lunch, dinner, drinks, or a show, but by all means, come to the West Bank Cafe and Laurie Beechman Theatre!
For reservations, menu, show schedules and more, go to www.westbankcafe.com.
