One of the nicest aspects of my work as a restaurant critic...beyond eating amazing food, of course, is occasionally striking up friendships with some of the restaurant’s staff members. Maybe it’s because I’ve worked in food service myself, but I feel a kinship with the people who work hard every night to provide the public with the best possible experience a restaurant can offer. I enjoy chatting with the hostesses and hosts, the servers, the bussing staff, and the managers.
At one point, I found myself engaged in a nice conversation with Craft’s General Manager, Kurt. When I told him how much I had enjoyed the prix fixe lunch, he suggested I might stop in for dinner some night, along with my husband, to try the regular nightly menu. So a few weeks later, Vincent and I made our reservations for dinner. If lunch was great, dinner was spectacular!
During the day, with natural light pouring through the enormous front window, the place feels comforting and homey. At night, it seems almost to glow under its own power. The lighting levels would be appropriate for a family dinner or a romantic dinner for two. There was a bigger crowd that evening, as well, but the sound levels were never too much. We never had to struggle to hear each other, or our server, for that matter.
We stopped by the bar first, and ordered cocktails: Vincent had the We’ll Always Have Pear-e - vodka, a cognac-based pear liqueur called Belle de Brillet, pear nectar, and bitters, while I chose the Persia, a long pull made with vodka, pomegranate, lemon, and mint. Each was a light, refreshing way to begin the evening.
The menu at Craft is arranged from lighter fare at the top, to heavier fare towards the bottom, and everything is meant to be shared, with diners building their own plates from serving platters placed in the center of the table. Knowing this, we ordered accordingly, deciding on dishes we’d both enjoy.
First, we were treated to an amuse bouche - two tiny cups of Butternut Squash Soup, with smoked maple syrup and chives. The natural sweetness of the squash was balanced nicely by the subtle smokiness of the maple syrup. A perfect little mouthful.
Next came our First Courses: the Braised Octopus with pistachio, olive, and a six-minute egg. After braising till tender, the octopus was finished off “a la plancha” for a touch of crispiness on the outside. The pistachio gave the dish a nice crunch, the olive added saltiness and a hint of acid, while a lovely harissa ailoi lent a touch of heat. We also tried the Beef Tartare - minced raw beef, mixed with onion, capers, smoked egg, and a lightly garlicky aioli. Thinly shaved radishes provided brightness, and a bit of arugula gave the beef a slight, peppery bite. I’ve tried many good tartares, but what set this one apart was the fried oysters perched on top of the beef, which gave the dish a subtly briny, oceanic flavor, making it a little play on the classic Surf & Turf! Yet with all these elements, the fresh, cold, clean-tasting beef was still the star of the dish!
Our Main Courses were the Roasted & Braised Berkshire Pork - the Berkshire variety, originating in England, is prized for its honest-to-goodness pork flavor, and for its juiciness and tenderness. The pork was served solo, in a roasting pan with only its natural jus, and a real fried pork rind as a garnish! Some of the best pork either of us have tried. The Roasted Flat Iron Steak was equally delicious, served with a rich, dark Bordelaise reduction. Both the pork and the beef were lightly seasoned, allowing their true flavors to shine, and they were roasted to tender perfection.
The proteins are all served on their own, so side dishes are recommended, and they were all uniformly wonderful. We chose the Rutabaga, which tasted like a cross between a carrot and a potato, and the Gnocchi were simple and light, with just a touch of cheese and a sprinkling of parsley. Our server described them as “pillows of love,” which they were indeed! Lastly, unable to choose one of the four varieties of Roasted Mushrooms on the menu, the server told us we could have a combination of all of them - the meaty Oyster and Hen of the Woods mushrooms, the more delicately flavored Trompette Royale, and the distinctively earthy Baby Shiitakes. Simple and irresistible, prepared with a touch of butter, a bit of salt, and some fines herbs, they were so good, I could’ve made a main course of them!
Finally, of course, dessert. We sampled the Banana Tarte Tatin - warm, caramelized banana, served atop toasted saffron marshmallow, accompanied by sesame and ginger ice cream, wrapped in crunchy shredded, toasted filo dough. The ginger in the ice cream gave the confection a bright, slightly spicy flavor, so as to not make the entire dessert too sweet. We also ordered the Chocolate Early Grey Mousse Cake - a light, spongy chocolate cake, layered with a chocolate mousse infused with the unmistakeable flavor of Earl Grey tea, which complemented the chocolate perfectly, without overpowering. A garnish of candied orange peel added just the right hint of citrus. So good!
Dinner at Craft was a remarkable experience; stunningly good dishes made with simple, pristine ingredients, and served family style, as Chef/Owner Tom Colicchio first conceived. Come for lunch or come for dinner, but come to Craft and experience their combination of fine dining and homey hospitality. Taste food the way food ought to taste.
Craft is located at 43 East 19th Street, NYC. Call 212-780-0880 for Reservations or visit www.craftrestaurant.com
